WHOEVER took over the much-loved Nico's Italian restaurant at Langho must have known they'd have a tough job on their hands.

And so it was with trepidation that four of us decided it was about time we checked out the new Sylhet Indian restaurant.

We needn't have worried.

Forget your preconceptions about Indian restaurant decor.

Sylhet is all about understated modern sophistication.

It could have come straight from a Habitat catalogue albeit one where interesting art and Indian knick-knacks had been added.

The extensive menu was equally impressive.

Aside from the usual jalfrezis, bhunas and biryanis, there was a whole section of specialities, including monkfish, coconut and other exotic-sounding concotions.

I opted for the lamb balti dupiaza, which was delicious, with tender meat and subtle flavours.

The others reported their mixed jalfrezi, chicken tikka masala and lamb karachi equally tasty and a dip of my peshwari naan in each confirmed this.

One word of warning though the jalfrezi was a bit hotter than in other Indian restaurants I've been to.

My attempt at showing off eating a bit of fresh chilli from my boyfriend's plate resulted in a good five minutes of profuse sweating.

The service was impeccable.

All in all, sophisticated without being snobbish and excellent quality food without being too expensive.

FOOD 9 DRINK 8 SERVICE 10 ATMOSPHERE 8 VALUE 9 Sylet is on Whalley Road in Langho.