YOU can't deny that Gordon Ramsay knows how to cook. He is undoubtedly one of the country's top chefs.

But I get the feeling that Channel 4 don't really know how to get the best out of him.

Kitchen Nightmares is unmissable TV as Gordon goes into failing restaurants and turns them round in his own inimitable style.

But the F-Word, his latest vehicle, is a bit like a menu where there are some really good dishes but which overall doesn't quite come off.

The main problem is that it doesn't quite seem to know what it is.

Because its star is who he is you must have the obligatory kitchen sections, usually involving a lot of swearing and some hapless would-be chefs getting shouted at a lot.

Then it's part foodie programme as our hero extols the virtue of rabbit. And then it tries to be some kind of celeb chat show.

Last night poor old Dermot O'Leary had to face the equivalent of a bush tucker trial' while sitting in a restaurant as he had to guess which animal's body parts he was being served.

Hasn't the poor man suffered enough having had to present Big Brother's Little Brother?

Really though The F-Word is all about Gordon Ramsay who is in danger of becoming a bit of a charicature of himself.

From the opening titles which see him shed his civvies' and don his trademark chef's whites you can tell he means business.

But the swearing is just too much. Seconds after the nine o'clock watershed the F-Word starts to live up to its name. Come on Gordon, just relax a little!